Sorry Fans…Just Now Catching Up!

So….The Strawberries Have Been Keeping Us Busy So Far This Spring (65 Quarts)!!!

Warm spring means first harvest on May 25th

Throwback…Well trained by her grandfather June 1984!

She’s back (on right)…Hey, it’s like riding a bike!

The strawberry monster has returned! Will she eat more than she picks? YES!

Last strawberry picking (Flavorfest variety) on June 13 (+ 1st of the Blueberries)

Overall, the Flavorfest variety performed and tasted better than the Surecrop.  The Lazy S will “re-furbish” both varieties for the next year, but we’ll try to thin out the Surecrop more.  Although we started with 25 plants of each variety, we’re thinking the Surecrop plants got overcrowded, resulting in lower yields and smaller berry size.

Looking Back on 2015 & Happy 2016 from the Lazy S!

TOTAL 2015 HARVEST WAS ALMOST 82LBS or >1.5 lbs/plant

 (Based on 50 plants… since 1/2 were in sick bay…see below)

Got the Cloudy Blues here at the Lazy S, so here’s a few sunny harvest photos to help…

Second harvest of BlueCrop & BlueRay of about 6lbs on June 28th!

Harvest Helper!

Harvest Supervisor!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post Harvest Work  (WOW…Glad it’s Over!)

Recall from earlier blogs that rows 3&4 were originally planted with about 1/3 native soil.  The pH in these rows had increased to over 7 in one season (due to soil buffering).  Plants in these rows had also started to show signs of chlorosis, so I removed all their blossoms and did not attempt to harvest from these rows this year.  Plants were placed into containers temporarily.  The soil was removed and replaced with the same soil-less mix used in Rows 1&2, and the plants were re-planted.  I also re-planted all the late variety Auroras (about 2 weeks later for first picking in mid-July) in their own row so I could remove bird netting from the early variety rows as soon as possible.

Note new soil-less mix of 1/2 peat moss and pine fines (no native soil). Sulfur placed on sides of hill.

Plants and drip irrigation re-installed. Note added black plastic weed block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some Sunny Fall Color Photos….

Fall at the Lazy S

Bluecrop has large yummy fruit and great Fall color too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh….red raspberries are starting to produce too…here’s the 1st Fall Crop:

Fall Red Varieties are Heritage and Vintage

 

Spring 2015 Mega Post – Almost 40lbs So Far!

SORRY IT’S BEEN A WHILE….Spring 2015 HIGHLIGHTS follow (in reverse order)

JULY – FIRST CROP RESULTS SO FAR (37lbs total from 40 plants)

• Expect to yield about 1 lb/plant from Bluecrop & BlueRay
• First pick was on 6/24.  Four picks so far about 4-5 days apart.  Last pick expected week of 7/13.
• Late variety (Aurora) not ready yet
• Bluecrop seems to have most consistently sized berries, but some Blueray berries are huge
• Net, flowering and pollination seemed to be thorough, in fact, fruit set on Blueray seemed excessive, so did some pruning early in spring

Weighing In (scale used by my grandfather at Findley Market in Cincinnati)

HELP ARRIVES!!!!!

 

1st BB Pie of 2015 (See Sept14 Post for the recipe)

 

 

Aurora (late variety) berries not ready yet..

Bluecrop ready to pick…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

JUNE – TRYING NOT TO SHARE (with the birds!)

• Installed bird netting over 1/2 inch PVC pipe forming a 15ft perimeter semi-circle “high tunnel” over the rows
• One edge of the net is secured with landscape pins and the other with bricks so net can be removed easily for picking
• Net is secured to PVC pipe using 1/2″ Snap Clamps (4ft length cut into 1″ pieces) from Greenhouse Megastore
• Net comes 17′ wide x 500′ long supplied by Plantra (AviGard Easy Fit Square Mesh Super Premium)
• I have not seen any evidence of bird infestation (yet) at the Lazy S using this system

Bird netting stretched over 1/2 inch PVC forming “high tunnel” over rows

Clips for fastening net to PVC support pipe

MAY – LEARNING TO READ THE “TEA” LEAVES

• Recall these plants are in a “soil-less” mix of peat moss and pine soil conditioner (fines)
• This is first season to try fertigation using a water soluble fertilizer (Peter’s Acid 21-7-7) in with irrigation water
• Noticed “bronze” leaf coloration early in season indicating nitrogen deficiency
• Increased frequency of fertilizer application to once every 7-10 days to correct problem

Nitrogen Deficiency

APRIL – FROSTY (BRRRRR!) VISITS THE LAZY S

• Temp drops to 32F at the Lazy S on the morning of April 24th!
• Plants are in early bloom stage with flowers open or set to open
• Fortunately, not much wind
• Started the Frost Heads at about temp of 33-34F and ice begins to form on blossoms
• Don’t notice any frost damage a few weeks later, so looks like the Lazy S dodged a bullet from Mother Nature this year!

Temp Drops to 32F! on 4/24 (coffee is very cold)

Turned on the Frost Heads

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ice (protecting?) the blossoms

Primocanes, Florocanes, Rhubarb, Espalier and Fertigation….oh my!

Lot’s of activity at the Lazy S this spring so far…

BLUEBERRIES

We are in the “early pink bud stage” and so have made our first fertilizer application of the season.

Blue Ray in Early Pink Stage

1st Feeding Time:  Recall we are replanting Rows 1&2 since the soil pH has risen to 7 (target range 4.5 – 5.5), so we just applied 1/2 tsp. (about 4.5gm) Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0) in 1 gallon of water per plant, and plan to apply this again next week to complete the first feeding.  Recall for 3 yr old plants, we need a total of 45Lb Nitrogen/acre/year over 3 feedings.  This is equivalent to about 9gm of Ammonium sulfate/feeding/plant.  Research indicates we should not apply a concentration of over 150 ppm of Nitrogen in any one application (9gm in 1 gallon = about 250 ppm), so we’re splitting the first feeding into two applications.  For Rows 3&4, same thing, except with Peters 21-7-7 since the soil test from last fall indicated we needed to add not just Nitrogen (21), but also some phosphorous (7) and potassium (7) to these rows.

RASPBERRIES

We’re adding 100 red raspberry plants to the farm this spring, specifically, 25 each Nova, Prelude, Heritage and Vintage.  The first two varieties are florocanes (summer bearing), that is, they produce fruit on the previous year’s growth.  The last two are called primocanes (fall bearing).  They fruit on the current year’s growth.  Net, we hope to have berries throughout the growing season.  Canes are planted 2 ft apart, about 1 inch deeper than at nursery, and the planted cane is then pruned at/near ground level.

Raspberry Canes grown & packaged by Indiana Berry

 

Raspberry Row Preparation…plant spacing about 2 ft apart

Planting cane approx 1 inch below nursery level

Planted and pruned cane

 

HOW ABOUT SOME STRAWBERRY RHUBARB PIE?

Yes, the Lazy S has also decided to expand into Rhubarb too!  Rhubarb needs good drainage, so the planting row was hilled about 2 feet high with well drained soil, and the buds were left exposed.  Plants were placed about 30 inches apart.

Nice large rhubarb root sections from Indiana Berry

Root section prior to planting

 

Same root section after planting

 

Adding a few fruit trees to the farm too….

Espalier is an ancient (think Roman) fruit tree pruning method that loosely translated means “something to rest the shoulder against”.  The method allows the tree to remain smaller in size for ease of maintenance, harvesting, and sometimes to take better advantage of a good growing environment, such as along a south facing wall.  We transplanted an Asian Pear and Fuji Apple from another smaller space last fall, and they seem to be enjoying the Lazy S so far this spring!  More info to follow…want to build a new trellis structure for them in their new home before a bigger reveal and discussion!

 

Espalier Fiji Apple new to the Lazy S this year

Asian Pear now appearing at the Lazy S

Lazy S Tells All (Ha!) @ Upcoming Hamilton County Master Gardeners Meeting

Hello Lazy S Fans!

You’re invited to attend the upcoming Hamilton County Master Gardeners Meeting on 3/10/15 from 6-7:30pm in the Education Room at Krohn Conservatory, Eden Park, Cincinnati, OH.  I’ll be sharing our adventures in growing (trying) blueberries so far, and some recommendations for others who want to give them a try!

If you can’t attend, a copy of the presentation is attached below.  Hope to cu there!

Here’s the final presentation.  Note recommendations for future Hamilton County Blueberry farmers from the Lazy S and Dan Rouster (Rouster’s Apply House and Blueberry U-Pick Farm in Milford OH) on last slide.

Adventures in Blueberry Farming v2

MICHIGAN MIGRATION: In search of the perfect berry…

Since things were quiet at the Ranch (berries in hibernation), decided to attend the Great Lakes Fruit & Veggies Expo in Grand Rapids Michigan in December hoping to get info from the Big Guys (almost 100 million pounds per year of blueberries grown in MI on over 20K acres) on how they do it…..

Yes, these are the grand rapids….

The Expo Floor….vendors of everything fruit & veggie

They don’t fertilize the berries with this…just the growers! (courtesy of the HopCat)

Here are some highlights….on how they do it:

• Soil conditions in the best growing area in Michigan are ideal, with untreated soil pH in correct range (4.2 – 5.2) and with good drainage (sandy soils)
• Micro-climate along shore of Lake Michigan provides winter temps 5-10F higher to help prevent winter damage
• Good cultural practices

I also learned about the new WMD for Blueberries, and how to trap and control it….the dreaded non-native FruitFly called SWD (Spotted Wing Drosophila – note wings of male).  We’ll need to set out some traps at the Lazy S in June and control if necessary….fun!  They lay their eggs in the fruit, so not a good thing to have back at the Ranch.

Blueberry WMD = SWD

The inner geer in me was also fascinated by all the equipment (here’s a $225K automated harvester)…but after discussions (open .ppt link below) with the Lazy S plants, we have decided to put this purchase on hold after learning that blueberries suffer a 21% drop in firmness after being dropped from 48in (yes, they have actually studied this)…so we’ll just have to use our fingers to pick for now.

It’s only $225,000!

Great Lakes Expo 2014.

So, you think you’re the only one that likes d’Berries?

I didn’t want to share with the local deer population, so….add a deer fence (about 8.5ft high).

Lazy S Deer Fence

 

Not to be outdone, the rabbits also wanted a taste, so had to install some chicken wire around the perimeter.  Fixed into ground with landscape staples and onto fence with hog rings provided by deer fencing contractor.

Rabbits eat deer fence- who knew?

 

Finally, not to be outdone, some friends decided to tunnel in from outside….

Scalopus aquaticus blueberriosus?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blueberry Geekiness…Testing for Soil pH

pH Meter & Magnetic Stirring Unit

Yes, I channeled my inner chemical engineer and relented and purchased the equipment to do this.  In my defense, I did need the equipment anyway to make sure I wasn’t adding too much acid to the city water the Lazy S uses for irrigation.  However, I do admit to spending too much time researching soil pH test methods, but hopefully you can take advantage of my overactive curiosity.  Besides, now I won’t have to spend $25 and wait 2-3 weeks for The Michigan State University Soil Crime Lab (really the Soil and Plant Nutrient Laboratory) to process my soil samples.

Here’s the Equipment:

1. Hanna Model HI 9813-6 pH Meter with 4.0 and 7.0 Calibration Solutions + Agricultural Cleaning Solution
2. Hanna Instruments HI 190M-1 Magnetic Mini Stirrer
3. American Weigh Digital Scale 100gx.01g + Calibration Weight Kit
4. #10 Soil Sieve
5. Several 100ml plastic Beakers

Digital Scale

pH Buffer (Calibration) Solutions

 

Here’s the Procedure (note this uses the 2:1 Water to Soil Ratio Method):

1. Pass enough soil through the #10 sieve for a 20g soil sample
2. Place the soil, magnetic stirrer, and 40ml of distilled water in the beaker
3. Stir for 15 min and then let the soil + water mixture settle for 30 min
4. Calibrate the pH meter according to mfg directions, then test the pH of the water layer (called the supernatant)
5. Turn the magnetic stirring device back on to re-combine the water and soil layers
6. TURN OFF THE STIRRER (pH electrodes are fragile and expensive)
7. Re-test the slurry for pH
8. Clean the pH probe

Sieve (screen) soil sample

Weigh the sample

Add magnet and distilled water

Stir the sample

Calibrate pH meter with 4.0 solution

Calibrate pH meter with 7.0 buffer

Test the water layer (supernatant)

Test the slurry

Clean the pH probe

Research indicated that the most accepted soil pH result seems to be from the swirled solution or slurry while the soil is suspended, rather than just from the supernatant.  The DOT and several universities use this result.  However, for example, the EPA method records the pH measurement of the supernatant as the soil pH.  There is a “suspension effect”, with the supernatant being either a higher or lower pH depending on soil conditions, so net, it’s important to note the procedure used.

For the Lazy S soil samples, the pH of the supernatant was consistently lower by .5 to .8 pH.  Despite the EPA, we’re choosing to use the pH of the slurry as our result.  We’re also planning to co-op samples with Michigan State to compare our results.

Have fun on your trip back to high school chemistry….

 

 

In Search of the Perfect Blueberry Pie!

A Soupy Saga…

At the Lazy S, we must admit chronic issues with the dreaded RUNNY PIE!…and soggy crusts!  We tried the filling recipes with cornstarch and/or Tapioca, and we even tried doubling or tripling the thickeners to get the final filling to firm up…but we continued to have filling that more resembled blue bean soup or maybe a compote suitable for a pancake spread (btw, this is not a bad way to use those berries).

 

The “No Drip” BB Pie
(photo by Karl Juengel)

 

Bring on the Maple Syrup!

Well, this year we decided to try a recipe from the Food Network site containing maple syrup (and yes, still with some Tapioca).  The maple syrup acts as both a natural sweetener and thickener.  The recipe technique is also designed to firm up that filling by reducing (pre-cooking) by 1/2 a portion of the filling in advance of introducing it into the crust for the final baking/cooking.

Well, Here It Is: Best Blueberry Pie (Filling and Crust) We Know Of

…combining the filling from the Food Network with the crust (#102) from Smitten Kitchen (clic below)

The Perfect BB Pie

SICK BAY (Chlorosis..ugh!)

Here are a few of my “patients” being treated for the blueberry blahs!  These photos were taken in July (far too early for Fall foliage!)

The patients show minimal production of new fruit-wood (stunted growth) and the classic yellow leaves, especially on new growth.  Almost all of the chlorotic plants are located in one end of Row #1…this is one of the rows incorporating native soil in the growing mix.  Net, I suspected a pH problem.

There are several causes of the classic iron chlorosis symptoms in blueberries (presence of free lime in the soil, high bicarbonate or sodium concentration in the irrigation water, restricted soil aeration, chloride ion toxicity, etc.).  However, blueberries are adapted to take up the nutrients they need in the target 4.5 – 5.5 pH range, and so that’s the first thing I checked.

Sure enough, soil pH results from samples taken from the base of six of the plants with symptoms were in the 6-7 range!

Learning = Instead of submitting just one composite sample for pH analysis before planting, I should have invested in at least one result per row.  This may have detected my alkaline problems in Row #1.

TREATMENT PLAN

So, how do you change the pH quickly?  Answer: You don’t!  So, research indicated that Iron Chelate is the best medicine.  Chelates are organic compounds that bond with metals, in this case Iron, and increase their soil solubility, and therefore plant uptake.  The EDDHA variety was indicated to make the iron available at the highest pH.  I’ve used the label concentration of 1 Tsp per gallon for berry crop foliage applied every 7-10days.

The Chlorosis Medicine

RESULTS

As of this post I’ve made 4 applications, and the chlorosis is getting better!  I plan to continue for the balance of the growing season.  I also pulled back the mulch and applied more soil sulfur to all the chloritic plants in hopes of reducing the soil pH  next growing season.

I’m also noticing that all the chlorotic plants are being grown in the native soil mix (Rows 1 & 2).  Several plants from each variety in these rows are showing some signs of chlorosis.  I don’t see any chlorosis issues with plants placed in the 1/2 peat & pines fines mix (Rows 3 & 4).